Guide: Choosing the Shape of Your Diamond

The choice of diamond affects not only the look and style of the ring, but also the amount of sparkle. The most traditional shape is the round brilliant diamond. A whopping 75% of diamonds sold are this shape, but there are plenty of choices.

Here’s a simple guide to your options:

Round Brilliant
This is 58-facet cut, divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), and is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance (also known as sparkle).

Oval
This is a symmetrical design looks good on women with small hands because it elongates the hands and fingers.

Marquise
This shape is elongated with pointed ends. It was inspired by the Marquise de Pompadour smile and was commissioned by the Sun King, France’s Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. It is beautiful as a solitaire or when matched with smaller complimentary diamonds.

Pear
This cut combines the oval and marquise shapes. It is the hybrid shape that looks like a sparkling teardrop. It beautifully compliments average size hand and fingers.

Heart
A pear shaped diamond with a cleft on the top. The extraordinary skill of the cutter determines the beauty of this cut. Look for a stone with an even shape and a well-defined outline.

Emerald
This shape is known as a step cut because its concentric broad, flat planes resemble stair steps. A rectangular shape with cut corners. Inclusions and inferior color can be more pronounced in this particular cut so you will need to find a superior diamond. Look carefully at the clarity and color.

Princess
This is a square or rectangular shape with many facets. This is a relatively new cut and often finds its way into solitaire engagement rings. It is attractive with longer fingers. This cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond’s depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are common.

Trilliant
This is the spectacular wedge shape and was first designed in Amsterdam. This design can vary depending on a particular diamond’s natural characteristics and the cutter’s personal preferences. The shape may look like a traditional triangle with pointed corners, but more rounded shapes can be found.

Radiant
This is a square or rectangular shape. The elegance of the emerald and the brilliance of the round shape marks this cut. 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are common.

Cushion Cut
Late 19th and early 20th style antique type shape. Remnants of the “Old Mine Cut”, a deep cut with large facets. 

Asscher Cut
This cut was made popular in the 1920’s by the Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. It has an art deco feel that was very popular at the time. The company went out of business during the Depression and Asscher cuts disappeared from the market. Recently this shape has come back into style.